TRAVEL TROUBLESHOOT 03
Answering your questions! Where to go in southern Spain and some lesser-known Greek islands...
Welcome back to Travel Troubleshoot, a monthly series where I answer paid subscribers’ travel questions submitted via our Substack chat. So, let’s talk about where you’re traveling this year or what places you’re curious about. If you’re new here, I’m rerouting all travel-related questions in my texts, emails and Instagram DM’s here!
If you missed the first two Travel Troubleshoots, here they are:
TRAVEL TROUBLESHOOT 01: Top 10 favorite restaurants in Paris right now and Mallorca stays on a budget…
TRAVEL TROUBLESHOOT 02: An inaugural trip to Italy by way of Florence and intel on the Romans' secret seaside paradise...
Now, on to this month…
QUESTION 1:
Doing Andalucía next month- but not the coast except for Cadiz- and wondering what you can share <3
Oh man, Andalucía, the southernmost region of Spain, deserves its own post entirely because there’s soooo much to cover here. Located at the tip of the Iberian Peninsula, it’s the gateway between Europe and Africa, forming a unique blend of cultural influences derived from its Moorish past– a heritage that remains visible in the iconic architectural sites throughout its major cities, including the Alhambra in Granada, the Mezquita in Córdoba, and the Giralda in Seville. But Andalucía has also always struck me as “the most Spanish” part of Spain, proudly showcasing the tropes we’ve come to associate with Spanish heritage, from its abundance of flamenco bars and traditional tapas restaurants—authentic symbols of Spanish culture.
The magic of Andalucía, though, extends beyond its historic cities, offering a variety of diverse landscapes, from mountains and beaches to deserts and salt flats. You’ve got the Mediterranean beaches of the Costa del Sol (I personally prefer the laidback charms of Málaga over the flashy appeal of Marbella), along with the mountains of the Sierra Nevada with its lush green valleys, alpine lakes and rivers, diverse wildlife, and bucolic villages that feel frozen in time, like Capileira and Pampaneira. Andalucía also has the striking deserts of the Tabernas, the vast salt flats of Las Salinas de Cádiz, and the lush olive groves of Jaén, one of the world’s largest olive-growing regions. I really meant it when I said Andalucía has everything… so I hope you’re going with time! (Something to consider: southern Spain is one of the warmest places to visit during the northern hemisphere’s winter months.)
Here are some of my thoughts as you plan for your upcoming trip to Andalucía…
So the must-visit cities are, of course, the capital Sevilla, which I wrote about in a very detailed guide for Vogue, Granada and Málaga. (I also recommend a day trip from Sevilla to Córdoba if time permits to walk around the cute cobbled streets and see the Mezquita). If you’re traveling with a group, I recommend booking a stay at Trasierra, just an hour north of Sevilla in the Sierra Norte Natural Reserve. It’s the most beautiful family-run estate where you’ll enjoy the most incredible farm-to-table lunches, naps under the shade, or get to select from a wide assortment of activities curated by owners Charlotte and Nick Scott. On a separate but relevant note: their son, George also hosts these incredible 3-5 day horse safaris across the Sierra Morena, where you’ll spend long days exploring the countryside on horseback, visiting the white moorish villages, indulging in delicious tapas lunches, smack dab in the mountainside, overnights in rural haciendas or Rajasthani-inspired tented camps. More info on George Scott Rides here. (Disclaimer: You will need some riding experience as this is not for beginners.) Granada is for culture and history buffs as the city’s Moorish past is on full display. After your visit to the Alhambra, stroll through some of its historic neighborhoods like the Moorish quarter of Albaicín or the Jewish quarter of Realejo. I know you said you’re not visiting the seaside besides Cadiz (which is tiny!) so adding this for the rest of you: if you’re keen on visiting a city with a seaside, Málaga’s is really having a moment right now. Since the pandemic, Málaga has become a major European hub for start-ups and creative communities, offering a wealth of affordable, authentic restaurants, vibrant bars and cafés, and a variety of activities to fill your schedule—from adventure, like rock climbing in El Chorro, to cultural gems like the Picasso Museum. My favorite little secret for shopping in Málaga is paying a visit to Gennaro Pepe Ciller’s studio. He moved from Formentera to Málaga recently so be sure to DM him to pick up some beautiful glass jewelry to bring back home! You’ll find tons of sweet, affordable hotels all over Andalucía– there’s really no shortage of that here– but Júlia Juste has the best round-up of stays in each place on her website Outliers.
*Look out for a more thorough guide to each destination in Andalucía soon. I definitely need to cover this in more detail.
QUESTION 2:
Me and my girlfriend are planning to travel back to the area around Milos this summer. I remember that you were on some of the other islands in the area. We are looking at Serifos, Sifnos and maybe Amorgos. Do you have any recommendations for the route? Like differences between those islands?
Great choices. The cool thing about the Greek islands is that no matter their proximity, each one has entirely its own vibe. Below are my thoughts on the islands you mentioned.