TRAVEL TROUBLESHOOT 01
Top 10 favorite restaurants in Paris right now and Mallorca stays on a budget…
Welcome to Travel Troubleshoot, a monthly series where I’ll be answering 2-3 questions (maybe more, let’s see how this goes!) submitted by paid subscribers in my Substack chat. We have a public thread going but I’m also taking them via DM’s if you’re shy :)
Questions can be anything from specific queries about an upcoming trip or general questions if you don’t even know where to start. All I ask is that you give as much detail as possible… help me help you! For example, what month/season are you planning to travel, how many days do you have, who are you going with? If your question is more general, like inspo for where to go, tell me where you’ll be traveling from, what type of place you’re looking for (beach/city/countryside?) and maybe even what some of your favorite trips have been lately so I get a sense of who you are as a traveler… you get it! Having more context will yield better responses and I really want to be as helpful as possible so that nothing stands in the way of you and that Campari spritz at La Fontelina… or whatever your version of travel bliss is ;)
If your question is about somewhere I’ve never been (I haven’t been everywhere!) I'll try my best to tap an expert I trust to answer it for you. If you submitted a question and you don’t see it here, don’t worry! That means I’m either working on a larger post on the topic or you’ll see it answered soon in an upcoming Travel Troubleshoot.
QUESTION 1:
Planning a girl’s trip to Paris with a friend this month before the holidays. We’ve both been to Paris before so we’re trying to avoid the super touristy stuff. Where would you recommend we eat!? What are some of your favorite spots? We’ve both been to Mokonuts (a rec we saw from your IG stories and loved it!)
Fun! For starters, you’re choosing the perfect time to visit Paris if you want to feel like a local. Paris during the month of November through early December leading up to the holidays is considered low season, meaning there are fewer tourists visiting during this period. It’s also just generally great: moderate temps, lower hotel rates, easier chance of securing restaurant reservations, and the holiday lights are giving Paris an extra glow that’ll make you forget about the sun setting at 5pm.
I’m so glad you liked Mokonuts! Now I know you have good taste ;) That would have definitely made my below list. (Be sure to check out their new café Mokochaya right next door to Mokonuts while you’re in town. They have a great breakfast in addition to all of their usual baked goods– the tahini cookies, yum– and bentos for lunch!) You didn’t specify budget or neighborhood so I take it you’re cool with a mix? Below’s a list of 10 (+ few more) of my current favorites– from mind-blowing meals to simply great ones with the perfect atmosphere.
***A quick note to all readers: My “lists” are always evolving. I’ll be creating more thorough travel guides for paid subscribers– Paris up first!– but while you wait for that, I recommend subscribing to Rebekah Peppler’s Shortlisted Substack. She’s a Paris-based writer and author and has great taste in all things food and wine.
Okay, sorry, hi! Here are my suggestions for your upcoming trip to Paris with your friend…
Pro tip: Optimize your experience by booking ~9pm dinner reservations for the best ~vibe~ (If that’s too late for you– looking at my American friends lol– 8:30 is fine too.)
EASY FRENCH places serving classic bistro food where there’s something for everyone:
Chez Georges (1 Rue du Mail, 75002)
An institution. Great atmosphere, perfect food, friendly hospitality in a classic, old school dining room. The crowd is a mix of locals that live in the neighborhood and stylish in-the-know travelers and it’s always crowded in the best way! I always bump into friends here. This is my go-to place to bring friends visiting from out of town.
Best for: Dinner
What to order: The classics! Sole meunière (pricey but worth it– I think it’s €70+ now), steak with béarnaise sauce…. honestly, just anything and everything! It’s all good!
Hours: Open weekdays for dinner. Closed on weekends.
Worth noting: Call if you don’t see reservations available online for your desired day/time because they’re usually able to squeeze a few extras in, even week of ;) Although if you can’t snag a reservation here, worthy alternatives would be Grand Brasserie in the 4th or the more casual Bistrot Paul Bert in the 11th. Also if I just got you in the mood for sole meunière (I’ve been craving it lately lol) Le Duc has a good one for a similar price.
Le Bon Georges (45 Rue Saint-Georges, 75009)
A casual French bistro for meat lovers where the food is anything but casual! While it’s pricey, it’s worth it for the quality of the meal.
Best for: Dinner (You’ll need to take a nap in the afternoon if you go for lunch because this is a heavy meal if done right!)
What to order: Beef tartare, the pâté en croûte of the moment and meat! Wash it all down with a glass of red wine.
Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner (even Sundays and Mondays!)
Worth noting: While they have options for pescatarians, I’d probably only recommend it to meat lovers as that’s definitely the main event here.
Bistrot des Tournelles (6 Rue des Tournelles, 75004)
Newish and more modern bistrot (opened in 2022 and has quickly become a Marais staple), serving all the classics in an intimate room usually filled with stylish, young Parisians.
Best for: Dinner
What to order: Their perfectly simple Croque Monsieur, the steak au poivre, Cordon Bleu and scallops in butter sauce.
Hours: Open daily for dinner but closed Monday.
Worth noting: Minimal options for pescatarians.
Le Petit Célestin (12 Quai des Célestins, 75004)
Unpretentious, traditional French dishes with no frills. Very young, cool, lively crowd the later your reservation. Fun vibe!
Best for: Dinner or weekend brunch.
What to order: Menu changes seasonally so no standout dishes, but everything’s good!
Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner but closed Monday.
Worth noting: I’d tell couples in town on a romantic sojourn to go to the same chef’s more upmarket restaurant, Jaïs in the 7th arrondissement.
Aux Deux Amis (45 Rue Oberkampf, 75011)
I love Aux Deux Amis so much. Super casual and always crowded in a good way. Come for a fun atmosphere and simple and delicious French dishes with high quality ingredients at an affordable price.
Best for: Dinner
What to order: Menu changes daily so no standout dishes, but everything’s good!
Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner but closed Monday.
Worth noting: It doesn’t seem like a place where you need reservations– and they can occasionally take walk-ins depending on what time you come, but it’s best to call and make a reservation to secure a table.
FRENCH WITH A CAPITAL F for non-picky eaters and true gourmands who don’t mind limited menus:
Parcelles (13 Rue Chapon, 75003)
If you were to ask me today what my favorite restaurant in Paris is, I’d probably tell you Parcelles. The food is exceptional and the wine pairing is truly chef’s kiss. Served in a chic, intimate dining room with a casual atmosphere.
Best for: Power lunch (but it’s also nice for dinner).
What to order: The gnocchi with sage butter (my favorite gnocchi dish of all time), the ris de veau (veal sweetbreads), or the pithivier if they have it that day! All paired with whatever wine the owner Sarah suggests.
Hours: Open weekdays for lunch and dinner. Closed on weekends.
Worth noting: If you go for lunch, you’ll likely be eating among the city's Michelin starred chefs on their day offs.
INTERNATIONAL FOOD for when you tire of steak frites:
Le Cheval d'Or (21 Rue de la Villette, 75019)
A neighborhood institution in Belleville that got a rebrand in 2023 and new ownership and a fresh re-imagined Chinese/French fusion menu. They’ve just shifted to tasting menus only but you get lots of bang for your buck and trust me when I tell you: every dish is exceptional. Tons of delicious, imaginative dishes that’ll fill you up! If you’re traveling with a picky eater, I’d venture to say this place may even convert them to becoming slightly more adventurous in the future.
Best for: Dinner
What to order: The copper tasting menu (€78/per person)
Hours: Open weekdays for dinner. Closed on weekends.
Worth noting: As it’s tasting menus only, not recommended for vegetarians, but there’s definitely enough for pescatarians to enjoy.
Localino (10 Rue de l'Odéon, 75006)
Best high quality Italian food I’ve had in Paris. Great ambiance, chic minimalist space, excellent wine list, friendly service. Neighborhood feel. I love sitting at the marble countertop.
Best for: Dinner
What to order: Menu changes seasonally and you can’t go wrong with anything on it, but obviously recommend ordering some of the pasta dishes.
Hours: Open weekdays for lunch and dinner.
Worth noting: At lunch, they offer a more limited a la carte menu or a prix fixe option where you can get three dishes (appetizer, main, dessert) for €28.
Taverna (56 Rue Amelot, 75011)
Casual Greek spot that’ll transport you to the Mediterranean. Probably the best Greek food I’ve had outside of Greece. The ambiance is cool and casual, and the service is really friendly. Say hi to the owner Paul for me! :)
Best for: Dinner
What to order: One of everything, seriously. I’m obsessed with the dolmades
Hours: Open Tuesdays-Fridays for dinner.
Worth noting: They sell merch, buy some!
Early June (19 Rue Jean Poulmarch, 75010)
Early June is a vibe! No in-house chefs, just a rotation of international chef pop-ups doing residencies and great natural wine!
Best for: Dinner
What to order: Changes with the chef residencies!
Hours: Open Wednesdays-Sundays for dinner. Closed Mondays & Tuesdays.
Worth noting: Be sure to check who the chef in residence is the week you’re there via their Instagram so you know what you’re getting and note that they only take reservations for parties of 4+ so walk-ins only. (If you like the idea of rotating chefs, Les Œillets is another fun spot with a similar concept and an even more local and lively crowd, serving small plates and natural wine. Reservations made via IG DM.)
A few other suggestions for trendy spots with a young, fun vibe and good food for you gals: Ojii (sceney Japanese), Sugaar (chic Basque), Oobatz (casual new place for great sourdough pizza), Le Cornichon (playful, fun neighborhood vibe “bar-tabac” style), 19 Saint Roch (stylish new spot from a talented young chef formerly of Vivant 2 and Déviant, which I also recommend for you!)
QUESTION 2:
Coming to you with Mallorca travel questions for late June/early July. I’m looking for recs for hotels you like (ideally $300-500/night but if you love something higher than that, still interested) and villa/house rentals for a group of 6-8 people. We’re looking to do four nights but realize there may be minimums. Budget is around $6k but again, open to pricing depending on your recs!
A few of my favorite Mallorca hotels within your $300-$500/night budget in late June/early July:
Portella Palma - Starting rates at ~$284/night
Hotel Corazón - Starting rates at ~$400/night (with a minimum 2 night stay)
Son Viscos - Starting rates at ~$300/night
Finca Son Gener - Starting rates at ~$460/night
S'Hotelet de Santanyi -Starting rates at ~$350/night (with a minimum 3 night stay)
Rural Es Figueral Nou - Starting rates at ~$250/night
Hotel Es Molí - Starting rates at ~$450/night
Agroturisme Finca Sa Maniga - Starting rates at ~$180/night (Important note for this one: if you’ve been following me for a while, you know I’m sometimes partial to a cozy, old-timey mom & pop stay with no frills but lots of warmth and charm– this is that. I know it’s not for everyone but it’s a special stay if you’re open to something more elemental).
If you were to increase your budget a bit… here are some nice Mallorca hotels with starting rates just under $700/night in late June/early July: Es Racó d´Artà, Son Brull, Hotel Can Simoneta, Can Ferrereta and The Lodge.
As for private villas, I personally feel like Airbnb is best for budget-friendly options. Here are a few listings that look cute, have good reviews, and still have some availability at the end of June: Rural farm S'Estepa, Historical Townhouse near beach & mountains, Charming Deia House, and Country house with SPA, pool, air conditioning etc. A bit pricier, but Son Rullan is one of my favorite stays in Mallorca (I stayed there many years ago on a trip hosted by my friend Carmen for her company Españolita). Outside of Airbnb, I love Casa Penya Rotja and Can Lluisso and I’m pretty sure they’re within your budget.
The end of June is already high season in Mallorca, so while it may be tricky to find a suitable villa for under $6k for just 4 nights as most rates are based on 7-night stays during this time, I spoke to my friends at the Le Collectionist to see if we could wrangle some options as close to your budget as possible. Le Collectionist is a villa rental company that has tons of gorgeous properties all over the world, including Mallorca (they can also enhance your experience with a premium services, like airport transfers, grocery shopping, personal chefs, etc). Here are a couple of options if you’re able to increase your budget slightly: Villa Blissful (8 pax) around 8k/4 night stay and Villa del Campo (6 pax) around 8.5k/4 night stay. Beyond that, they’re still confirming the new rates for the following three villas for the upcoming year, but based on last year’s rates, these may work for you: Villa Mabel, Villa Atena and Villa Ernesta.
Happy travels!
P.S. If these were your questions, my DM’s are open for feedback! How’d I do? Do you feel like you got what you needed? As this was the first edition of Travel Troubleshoot, I’d love to hear your thoughts :)
