Travel Field Notes 04
Where I've been lately: from the coolest new hotel in the Engadin, what not to miss in Paris right now, Tbilisi highlights, plus my go-to travel uniform...
Winter is (almost?) on its way out… I think—or at least I hope—for my friends on the East Coast, who’ve been absolutely buried under what can only be described as a relentless, freezing, snowy, and now probably slushy winter season.
However, I have to admit that I was grateful for the snowy season we had in the Alps. After a couple of glorious ski trips, like Megève, which I wrote about for Vogue and here in the newsletter, plus my annual trip to St. Moritz that I covered in detail for Who What Wear and my evergreen guide I updated for Vogue, I was finally ready to close that chapter for the season.
My first trip after the mountains took me to Georgia (the country), a place I’ve wanted to visit for years. I can’t share everything just yet (the full story is heading to print, and I’ll send it your way the moment it hits newsstands and goes live online), but I wanted to share a little sneak peek in the meantime.
So! Below, a few travel highlights from this past month: some lingering thoughts on the Engadin Valley + a potential summer road trip idea, what not to miss in Paris right now, a handful of Tbilisi favorites, plus the new elevated essentials brand that’s become my go-to for travel.
What not to miss in Paris right now…
I saw some fantastic exhibitions in Paris last month. Some of my favorites still on view: Martin Parr at Jeu de Paume (until May 24th), Camille Bombois at Galerie Dina Vierny (until March 14th), and Bertrand Fournier (an artist I personally love) at Alzueta Gallery (until March 14th).
Very much looking forward to the Renoir exhibit at Musée d’Orsay starting March 17th and Calder at the LV Foundation starting April 15th.
My favorite outerwear brand, Nour Hammour, just opened a gorgeous new showroom in the 8th, which I covered for Vogue. Their leather and shearling coats are seriously the best out there. The space, which you can visit by appointment only, offers a fun, intimate shopping experience—perfect for a mother-daughter outing or a stylish activity while on a girls’ trip to Paris.
Luca Bagnara is where I go for incredible lymphatic drainage massages and kobido-inspired facials. He just settled into his new digs at 51 Iena, a new, super chic private member’s club in the 16th. The treatment rooms are gorgeous and you don’t have to be a member to book with Luca. Run, don’t walk.
The Serge Gainsbourg house & museum in the 7th just announced the availability of new time slots for visits starting in April. The house & museum tour always sells out super fast so book asap!
A cool new hotel in the Engadin Valley + a summer roadtrip…
I really love the Engadin Valley. In my opinion, it’s the most beautiful stretch of the Swiss Alps, with traditional Engadiner houses whose earthy facades are adorned with intricate sgraffito designs and carved shutters. They look like real-life gingerbread houses! I spend so much time in St. Moritz each winter that I tend to overlook the other storybook villages in the region… places like Ardez and Guarda.
My visit to the new Chesa Marchetta in Sils-Maria was inspiring. The place, now helmed by Artfarm, the independent hospitality company of gallerists Iwan and Manuela Wirth (who also own Fife Arms in Scottish Highlands), is so damn cool. Rooms are super cozy, the restaurant is charming and delicious, and the artful bar and living spaces are truly what Alpine dreams are made of. It’s definitely an idyllic winter retreat, though a bit isolated and not the most convenient if you’re skiing in St. Moritz.
It got me thinking that summer would be an epic time to stay there. Summer roadtripping around the Engadin has always been high on my list. You’ve sort of got it all: swimming in fresh alpine lakes, hiking through scenic mountain roads, exploring the picture-perfect villages while stopping into local cafés and bakeries. Plus, the Engadin has a rich art and cultural history thanks to its long tradition as a hub for artists, writers, and architects. Many painters and creatives lived and worked here, leaving behind galleries and historic buildings that still define the region’s cultural heart today.
If you like the idea, here are some cool art and culture sights around the Engadin worth roadtripping for…
Within 20 minutes drive from Chesa Marchetta:
Vito Schnabel Gallery, St. Moritz - contemporary art gallery founded in 2015 by American curator and dealer Vito Schnabel.
Hauser & Wirth Gallery, St. Moritz - contemporary art gallery opened in 2018 from the renowned gallerists behind Chesa Marchetta.
Segantini Museum, St. Moritz - opened in 1908 as a dedicated museum and memorial to the painter Giovanni Segantini and houses the world’s most important collection of his Alpine works.
Within 1hr drive from Chesa Marchetta:
Muzeum Susch, Susch - contemporary art museum in a renovated monastery and brewery that opened in 2019 that also features a cute Alpine bistro.
Schellenursli Museum, Guarda - small museum that brings to life scenes from the beloved Swiss children’s book Schellen‑Ursli. Guarda is widely considered the inspiration for the village in the book and the museum connects the tale to the real village and its traditions. Very cute!
Lampert/Fuschina da Guarda, Guarda - a traditional blacksmith’s forge run by artisan Thomas Lampert, specializing in handcrafted metal items, especially knives. Today it combines an atelier, museum, and restaurant, giving visitors a full experience of local craft, traditions, and gastronomy. This one’s my personal deep cut, literally ;)
Within 1hr15min drive from Chesa Marchetta:
Schloss Tarasp, Tarasp - perched dramatically above its namesake village, this is a striking medieval castle with a blend of Romanesque and Baroque architecture offering panoramic views of the surrounding Alps.
Fundaziun Nairs, Nairs (near Scuol) - a contemporary art and cultural center housed in an historic bathhouse on the banks of the Inn River. (Are you an artist? Because it’s also an artist’s residency comprising nine studios and bedrooms, a large kitchen, a fully equipped event hall, and exhibition rooms on three floors.)
Not Vital, Sent - a unique sculpture park and museum where the Swiss artist Not Vital’s large-scale, playful works interact with the alpine landscape.
Alberto Giacometti Museum, Sent - A museum dedicated to the life and work of the legendary Swiss sculptor, offering an intimate look at his drawings, sculptures, and the artistic legacy of the Giacometti family in the Engadine.
*You obviously don’t have to stay at Chesa Marchetta. There are so many cute, affordable boutique hotels in the Engadin Valley. We can talk about that in chat should you want some other suggestions :)
The brand I’m wearing on every flight…
When I travel, I want to be comfortable but still look put-together. I found the perfect brand for that in 440ME—their elevated essentials have been my go-to’s for every flight and train ride since I discovered them last fall. And they’re pretty affordable for the high quality!
The brand partners with a world-class manufacturer known for producing luxury knitwear for leading global houses, which means access to top-tier fabrics and expert craftsmanship. Every material is carefully considered: organic cottons, responsibly sourced wool, silk, and cashmere, all selected for their hand feel and longevity.
I’m so impressed with how everything they make actually survives long flights, train rides, and being jammed into my suitcase without looking tired. The black Essential Flare Pant is my hero staple. (I’ve already begged them to produce it in more colors.) They’re comfortable, flattering and somehow completely wrinkle-proof. I wore them on a 5-hour flight and landed without a single crease—how!? They also manage to stay wrinkle-free after being stuffed into my suitcase. Miracle pants! I’ve also been living in their Cashmere Silk Oversized Knit Shirt, which looks and feels like The Row, but travels infinitely better and is a quarter of the price. I’ll probably buy their Merino Silk Classic Crewneck for my spring travels.
FYI, this is not sponsored! Just a genuine fan over here.
At last, Tbilisi highlights…
As much as we love to compare one city to another in travel journalism, usually in an effort to convince you to book the trip to somewhere off-the-beaten-path, Tbilisi really stands on its own. It’s unlike anywhere I’ve ever been. People make the mistake of comparing it to Russia or other post-Soviet countries, but Georgia’s identity is far older and more layered than that 70-year chapter in its history. Don’t get me wrong, there are still very visible Soviet layers in Tbilisi, but they sit alongside medieval churches, Art Nouveau balconies, glassy new builds, and hyper-modern hotels. The Soviet chapter is absolutely still legible here but it’s only one chapter in a city whose identity stretches back millennia.
Since its break from the Soviet Union in 1991, the country of Georgia has been rebuilding and reestablishing its identity and independence—something I’ll go into more when I explore the design and culture scene for the magazine assignment I traveled for. Stay tuned for that, but in the meantime, I wanted to share a few highlights from my trip…
THE STAY: Stamba Hotel is arguably the coolest hotel I’ve ever stayed at. It’s more than a hotel. It’s a cultural ecosystem. The building itself is a former Soviet-era printing house, and the design leans into that history with raw brick, soaring ceilings, and then there’s a lush, plant-filled atrium that feels like part jungle, part creative hub. The rooms blend industrial edge with homey comforts—floor-to-ceiling windows, warm leather and brass accents, stand-alone tubs, and walls of books that make you feel you’re home.
Every detail at Stamba celebrates creativity, community, and Tbilisi’s vibrant culture—from the Photography & Multimedia Museum and D Block co-working space, to multiple restaurants, an epic wine bar, a chocolate bar and café, a hotel shop, and a sprawling public amphitheater where locals and guests gather to eat, drink, and hang out.
THE FOOD: Georgia sits in the South Caucasus and its food reflects this crossroads between Europe and Asia, blending influences from the Middle East, Eastern Europe, and the Caucasus. What makes it unmistakably Georgian, though, is the use of fresh herbs, bold but balanced flavors, unique cheeses and breads, and a communal style of eating. I’ll admit: I knew almost nothing about Georgian food before my trip, but I quickly fell in love with so many of the country’s signature dishes, like khachapuri (cheese-filled bread), khinkali (juicy Georgian dumplings), and their walnut sauce, known as bazhe poured over boiled or roasted meats, fish, or vegetables.
Here are a few Tbilisi restaurant recs and what to order at each:
