In hotel news, there’s a lot to talk about in the South of France this summer. Here are a few worthy highlights as you plan your summer travel to the French Riviera…
Last summer, the South of France was buzzing with the highly anticipated opening of Hôtel du Couvent in Nice, and I can wholeheartedly attest that it lived up to the hype. The property and everything they’ve done with it is remarkable. I was lucky enough to be invited to stay a week before its public debut and had the pleasure of writing about it for Vogue. If you’re traveling to Nice this summer, I highly recommend a stay there.
Les Bains Gardians also opened last summer in the more off-the-beaten-path destination of La Camargue, resulting in a much quieter debut. But I did cover it for Vogue (!) and then again in my 2024 favorite places round-up! (My version of screaming it from the rooftops that I really loved it here.) If you're planning a trip to Marseilles or Arles this summer, I highly recommend spending a night or two there on the front or backend of your trip for a unique experience in a mysterious, untapped little corner of the South of France.
I was one of the first guests to stay at the new AREV St. Tropez last spring (in a poolside suite, which I loved!) and I was so impressed. St. Tropez has so many great hotels but this one stood out for several reasons. (I updated my Vogue round-up to include it later this month.) From the cool and casual but super accommodating staff, to the food, drinks, and overall vibe—everything felt spot-on. I’m usually more of a beach person than a pool lounger, but I found myself fully enjoying the scene here. The cocktails (and mocktails) were excellent, the poolside snacks hit the spot, and the whole atmosphere had this fun, nostalgic energy. I loved the maximalist design in shades of blue and red across the property, which paid tribute to St. Tropez’s Golden Era. That said, I did find some details a bit over-branded and cheesy (did they really need to spell out “A rêve in the sun” on the pool floor?). In my opinion, a touch more subtlety in certain places would elevate things *aesthetically* but that really didn’t detract from how truly exceptional the stay was.
Bonus call out: If you’re headed to St. Tropez this summer, consider stopping by beach club and restaurant La Bouillabaisse—now with a fresh new look, thanks to the art direction of my friends at Agence Mews.
About an hour from Saint-Tropez, in Saint-Raphaël, Hôtel Les Roches Rouges sits on one of my favorite stretches of the Riviera. It’s named after the red rock formations found in the Le Dramont area, part of the Esterel Massif—a volcanic mountain range where dramatic red cliffs plunge straight into the Med. I really love how wild and natural this part of the Riviera is— I prefer it to the more built-up eastern flank that includes Cannes, Nice and Antibes (though those are definitely better for travelers looking for a vibe). While the hotel has been around for some time, it’s debuting several new additions this summer. These include an expansion into a neighboring building with 25 new rooms arranged around a sea-facing outdoor patio, a new gym, and a reimagining of the former La Plage restaurant as Estelo. The La Cabane bar is also being relaunched as La Chicoula. All of these updates stay true to the property's original vision, drawing inspiration from the region’s Modernist architecture, like Eileen Gray’s Villa E-1027 and Le Corbusier’s Cabanon.
We need to talk about Hyères. It lies to the west of the core French Riviera, closer to Toulon than to the “Golden Triangle” (Nice, Cannes, Monaco) and supposedly offers a quieter, more laid-back vibe. It’s way less commercialized, retaining more of a Provençal feel with old-town charm and an abundance of palm trees (it’s one of Europe’s main centers for palm cultivation). I’ve personally never been, but all the new developments there have piqued my interest. Last summer, the seemingly very adorable Hôtel Lilou opened in a restored 1930’s building located just around the corner from the iconic Villa Noailles. The hotel was reimagined by design duo Haddou Dufourcq, who I’ve been a longtime fan of (I covered their Paris apartment for Architectural Digest).
…And this July, the family-run Hôtel Le Provençal—originally opened in 1951 on the Giens peninsula with sweeping views of Hyères—will debut a fresh new look, with all 41 rooms and its restaurants completely redesigned by the amazing Rodolphe Parente. The hotel’s longtime claim to fame is its iconic seawater pool carved into the rock at Parc du Provençal, which also features a tennis court and two restaurants, both now also reimagined by Parente. In October, the property will expand further with 23 newly renovated apartments and a brand-new spa at Parc du Provençal.
For a dose of culture… Just an hour drive inland from Marseille, you’ll reach Château La Coste, a unique destination in Provence that blends a working vineyard with a world-class center for contemporary art, architecture and hospitality. Most people come for the open-air sculpture park, a meal at the Francis Mallmann restaurant, wine tastings, or a bougie stay at Villa La Coste (which is totally worth the hype, by the way). But in summer 2024, the estate introduced a more accessible and relaxed option: Auberge La Coste, an inn at the heart of the estate, offering a more affordable alternative for travelers who want to soak up all the culture without breaking the bank. I checked it out last summer and loved it. While you won’t have access to the pool and spa at Villa La Coste, you’re optimally positioned to take advantage of the estate’s rich cultural offerings.