The Reroute 01
Destination alternatives to a popular Greek island, an oyster coast in western France, and a postcard-perfect Italian countryside...
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It’s always humbling to be featured in other authors’ Substacks. Recent features include my longtime friend Olivia Lopez’s The Dossier, the incomparable Yolanda Edwards’ Club Yolo, the Noms Substack, and most recently, in the The Sunday Series.
There’s something oddly revealing about letting other people describe you. I also discover things about myself when prompted by such thoughtful questions. What comes up again and again is my love for covering off-the-beaten path places and suggesting alternative, less-touristy routes to get the type of experience you’re looking for. Over the years—and thanks to so many messages from countless readers—it’s become clear that this is something I’ve come to be known for.
So, I’m introducing a new series where I’ll simply ask you to consider a reroute.
To be clear, by no means do I claim to be “discovering” any of these places. I’m not Christopher Columbus. These aren’t new destinations (though for some of you, they might feel that way). But it’s no secret that travel trends can take a chokehold on a place, turning once-beloved spots into crowded, overpriced versions of themselves during peak season. So I love highlighting destinations that offer a similar kind of magic, but with fewer crowds, more accessible prices, and the space to actually sink into the feeling you’re chasing.
Let me remind you, that you all really loved this this post, which still remains a great reference board for less obvious travel ideas.
The challenge with many of these “alternative” destinations is that they’re simply not as visible in the travel conversation—fewer new hotels and tourism developments mean less press and minimal algorithmic hype—so there often isn’t enough out there to give you the confidence to go for it. With this series, my hope is to give you a launchpad toward places that feel a little more unexpected, but a lot more rewarding.
This month, I’m spotlighting a trio of thoughtful swaps: an alternative to a beloved Greek island, an oyster-rich stretch of the western French coast, and an Italian countryside that trades postcard perfection for a hyper-local and less performative take on tradition…
If you were considering Milos, consider Folegandros instead
What you’re probably going for: Greek island bliss— from “instagrammable” landscapes, lazy beach days and boat days, and no real “vibe” beyond that. Milos isn’t one of those Greek Islands with a vibe. Its main villages like Plaka and Pollonia have their charms, but are fairly low-key compared to some other Cycladic hotspots. People go to Milos for its jaw-dropping natural beauty, incredible beaches framed by lunar-white cliffs, colorful volcanic sands, and crystal-clear waters. This is the island for beach lovers who crave long swims, reading under a shady tree, simple food, and unforgettable sunsets.
How Folegandros is similar: Folegandros is a quieter, more intimate alternative to Milos (Milos has become especially crowded over the past five years), offering those dramatic cliffside beaches, crystal-clear waters (the clearest I’ve seen in the Cycladics!), and stunning sunsets. Its charming Chora (which I actually feel has a cooler vibe than Milos’ Plaka) and small, natural beaches make it ideal for those of you seeking the low-key, relaxed vibe you were going for with Milos. It’s the perfect island for lazy swims, simple tavernas, and breathtaking views without the crowds.
How to get there & get around: Take a direct ferry from Athens (Piraeus Port), Santorini, Milos, Sifnos, Serifos, Paros or Naxos— all have direct routes to Folegandros. (I use Ferryhopper to book my ferries.) Once on the island, there are tons of rental car companies at the ferry port. Your trip will be optimized with a set of wheels— be it a car, scooter or four-wheeler, as taxis are scarce. Book in advance (especially if you require an automatic). There are also water taxis running from Agali to Karavostasi to secluded beaches like Katergo, Livadaki, Agios Nikolaos and Ambeli.
Suggested stays:
Spina - The dreamiest remote stay featuring three minimalist suites and a restaurant with direct access to Ambeli Cove.
Galifos Eco Houses - Incredible rooms to rent on Galifos beach (no electricity! Rely solely on candles and light gas!)
Blue Sand Hotel & Suites - Simple beachfront hotel in an incredible location.
Anemomilos Boutique Hotel - Cute, low-frills family-run hotel on the edge of Chora if you want to stay in town.
Editor’s note: I stayed at Gundari and my omission is intentional.
Highlights:
A boat day in Folegandros is essential, which you can book with Bloomarine Folegandros Boat Rental, to explore all the incredible beaches that are easier accessed by sea. You can either rent a boat (no license needed) or book a private 4-8hr boat tour with a captain.
So there’s this place paid subscribers get 10% off bookings for May, June or September :) I’ll provide the details for this promo in our paid subscriber chat ;)
Beaches: Paralia Livadaki, Paralia Ampeli, Agios Georgios, Paralia Agios Nikolaos, Paralia Agkali, Paralia Fira and Katergo
Seaside tavernas: Pastithea Restaurant, Papalagi Seafood, Taverna Agios Nikolaos, and Kalymnios in the port while you await your ferry.
Tavernas in town: Pounta, O Kritikos grill, and Irini’s Tavern & Grocery Store.
Additional reading:
My Greek Island planner is a good start.
Some other Greek Islands I’ve written about for Vogue that may also be worth considering, like Patmos or Spetses.
If you were considering Île de Ré, consider Cap Ferret instead
What you’re probably going for: A posh, but easy seaside summer in western France characterized by oyster lunches, beautiful markets, and a more local, low-key alternative to the Med. Île de Ré is the epitome of an easy, elegant French summer. Just off the Atlantic coast, it’s known for whitewashed villages with green shutters, hollyhocks climbing stone walls, salt marshes, and long, flat bike paths that run the length of the island. The slow rhythm is articulated by cycling from village to village, morning markets, beach afternoons, and seafood lunches that stretch on without urgency. It’s social but in an unpretentious way, with family homes, low-key boutiques, good bread and oysters, and evenings that revolve around simple dinners and golden light rather than nightlife.
How Cap Ferret is similar: Cap Ferret and Île de Ré both offer the quintessential French coastal escape on France’s western coast that feels effortlessly chic but relaxed. They really capture the same spirit. Though Cap Ferret has a wilder, more elemental summer energy. I’d venture to say it’s a bit quirkier. A narrow spit of land between the Atlantic and the Bassin d’Arcachon, it’s known for pine forests, sandy bike paths, oyster shacks on stilts, and raw ocean beaches that feel untamed and expansive. You have the wild Atlantic surf on one side, glassy basin waters on the other, and similar to Cap Ferret, long bike rides through the pines followed by plates of oysters, shrimp, and crisp white wine at a cabane. With just a few shops and restaurants on the one central commercial street Boulevard de la Plage, there’s no real “scene,” in Cap Ferret or a proper “town center”—just quiet money, family houses passed down generations, and a deeply French sense of understatement. Here, nights are early, mornings are salty, and the luxury is the return to an easy, unfussy summer.
How to get here & get around: Get yourself to Bordeaux. From there, you can drive straight to Cap Ferret (although you really don’t need a car once you’re there, so I’d encourage you to take the train to Arcachon and 30min boat transfer over to Cap Ferret, which you can book here). Once you’re there, you can rent bikes (many hotels offer bike rentals) or walk everywhere!
Suggested stays:
Hôtel des Dunes - An iconic old hotel turned into a modern surf lodge run by a lovely couple, Karine and Jean-Philippe (tell them I say hi if you stay here!) Within walking or biking distance from everything.
La Maison du Bassin - A classic, reliable old timey stay. Also within walking or biking distance from everything.
Le Cœur du Ferret by Iconic House - A luxury rental home by a company I trust.
Editor’s note: I know the freshly renovated Hôtel de la Plage looks tempting, but it’s located in the small, out-of-the-way village of L’Herbe. I recommend visiting L’Herbe, but not staying there, as it’s not the most convenient base.
Highlights:
Oyster tasting shacks: La Cabane d’Hortense - Les Youkas, Chez Boulan, Le Chai Bertrand, La Cabane du Mimbeau.
Restaurants: Chez Hortense (a must for late lunch), Mayzou when you tire of oysters and seafood.
Visit L’Herbe, a tiny, postcard-pretty oyster village on the peninsula, known for its colorful wooden cabins, quiet beach, and laid-back, old-school Arcachon Basin vibe.
Hit the Cap Ferret market at Place des Combattants d’AFN, open daily in high season from mid June-mid September ~8am-1pm daily. (Double check timing with hotel staff.)
Book a boat day with Des Hommes et Des Mers around the Arcachon Bay, where you’ll also get to visit the absolutely iconic Dune du Pilat.
So there’s this place paid subscribers get 10% off bookings between April 1 - October 15, 2026, when booked and paid for by June 15. I’ll share the details for this promo in our paid subscriber chat ;)
Additional reading:
For my fully-packaged hour-by-hour itinerary of Cap Ferret (including a few days in Arcachon), you can steal my vacation straight from New York Magazine. (Editor’s note: soooo many of you have already messaged me over the years saying you visited Cap Ferret because of this guide and loved it. Music to my ears!)
If you were considering Tuscany, consider Piedmont instead
What you’re probably going for: Postcard-perfect Italy! Good wine, long lunches and landscapes that live up to the hype. It’s not a revelation that people go to Tuscany for the quintessential dream of Italy: sun-drenched hills, cypress-lined roads, vineyards and olive groves rolling toward medieval towns. Add in a sprinkling of award-winning luxury hotels, and it’s easy to see why it seduces so many. Ultimately, it lures travelers with its instant beauty and accessibility—between Florence’s art and history, postcard villages, wine estates you can visit without insider knowledge, and a food culture that’s generous, simple, and deeply satisfying.
How Piedmont is similar: Tuscany and Piedmont are both defined by landscape-driven pleasure: vineyard-covered valleys, medieval towns, and a deep reverence for food and wine as a way of life. The draw is pastoral elegance with days shaped by the seasons, local ingredients, and wines that reflect place as much as pedigree. Though Piedmont isn’t defined by tourism the way Tuscany is. It’s quieter, moodier, and more introspective, with a sense that beauty is earned through tradition rather than spectacle. Where Tuscany is sunlit, iconic, and immediately legible, Piedmont feels refined and cerebral. A bit less postcard, more connoisseur. It’s known for serious wines (Barolo, Barbaresco), white truffles, and a culinary culture that prizes precision over rustic abundance. In Piedmont, wine culture is less about the spectacle and more about the terroir. While Tuscany has big names (Chianti, Brunello), Piedmont’s wine reputation among serious oenophiles is next level, and its culinary scene ranks among the best in Italy, still favoring locals over tourists. The landscapes here are softer, often shrouded in mist, the towns quieter, and the pleasures more private. Put simply: Tuscany invites you in at first glance; Piedmont reveals itself slowly, rewarding patience and curiosity.
How to get there & get around: Get to Turin (or a bit further, Milan) and drive or take the train (1-2.5 hours by car or train). You’ll want to rent a car to have while exploring Piedmont, so my vote would be renting a car and driving from one of those main cities.
Suggested stays: I would base yourself in the Langhe, the hilly wine region in southern Piedmont. Keep in mind, Piedmont remains deeply local and doesn’t have the luxury five-star hotels that Tuscany is known for. Hospitality here is understated and rooted in the land, so don’t expect any grand bravado.
Casa di Langa - I loved by stay here. It’s a great base in the Langhe, situated in the heart of Piedmont’s wine country.
Le Marne Relais - Contemporary boutique hotel and winery estate in the hills between Langhe and Monferrato.
Vigne di Fagnano 1709 - An intimate, aristocratic 18th-century countryside relais in the hills of the Langhe, beautifully restored into a luxury-charm retreat.
Relais San Maurizio - The original 5-star hotel in the area set in a beautifully restored 17th-century monastery atop the Langhe hills.
Tra Arte e Querce - Few places feel as immersive as this intimate inn and restaurant, once run by legendary local truffle hunter Ezio and his wife, Clelia. While the couple no longer run the property, Ezio still hosts guests on early morning truffle hunts with his trusted truffle dog.
Highlights:
Piedmont is revered for its uncompromising food and wine culture. This is the land of Barolo and Barbaresco, white truffles and tajarin, brasato and hazelnuts—and the birthplace of the Slow Food movement, with local festivals and markets that remain firmly rooted in tradition. For the best wine, food and truffle hunting experiences, I suggest booking with Daniel Eggener of Experience Piemonte. He provides customized food and wine tours, and organizes the best wine tastings, cooking classes and truffle hunts, etc., with top insiders in the area.
Restaurants: There’s way too much to share! But here’s a starting point. For serious foodies, I can confidently say that every one of these meals will change your life.
In Alba: Osteria dell’Arco, Osteria dei Sognatori and Osteria del Vicoletto.
In Bra: Ristorante Battaglino dal 1919*, Osteria del Boccondivino*, Osteria Murivecchi, Trattoria La Gallinaccia.
In/around La Morra: L’Osteria del Vignaiolo, Osteria Veglio, Ca’ del Re (also has rooms!), Locanda Fontanazza, Vineria Sociale (wine bar), Osteria More e Macine.
In Monforte d’Alba: Lostu, Repubblica di Perno.
In Diano d’Alba: Trattoria nelle Vigne.
In Roddino: Osteria da Gemma - just for the experience :) go hungry!
Visit notable towns: Alba is the cultural heart of the Langhe, full of markets, truffle fairs, shops, and bustling cafés and restaurants. Nearby Bra, the birthplace of Slow Food, is a hub for food culture, with lively markets, trattorias, and seasonal festivals. Other charming towns worth visiting include Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, La Morra, and Neive.
Vintage car tour: Elevate your experience by either renting a vintage convertible from Driving Vintage to self-drive around the countryside for a day or book a tour with a driver. You can work with them to craft an itinerary based on your interests or explore on your own in style.
End your trip with a visit to the lakes: Specifically Lake Orta, located just ~2 hours north from the Langhe. Stay at Laqua by the Lake; eat at Taverna Antico Agnello (the only memorable restaurant here), visit the famed Basilica di San Giulio, and (final deep cut for you) the Fondazione Antonio e Carmela Calderara, the house-museum dedicated to the art and legacy of the painter Antonio Calderara.
Additional reading:
My guide to Turin for Vogue
My October truffle hunting experience in Piedmont’s quieter Bormida Valley.
If this newsletter got you daydreaming about your next trip or texting someone “we have to go here”— tap the heart or share it with your favorite travel partner.