Reader's Digest 01: The Skier's Digest
A round-up of my winter Alps coverage this year and a few things I'm excited about this season in the Alps...
Every so often I’ll send out a Reader’s Digest, rounding up some of the latest articles I’ve published with topics I think will be relevant to you + some additional thoughts.
First up, the skier’s digest: Alps edition.
I grew up skiing most winter weekends with my family, a tradition I regretfully let slip away for much of my adult life. I resisted embracing winter, instead seeking refuge from the bitter cold in places like the Caribbean, Mexico, South America and southern Spain. Since moving to France, I wanted to take advantage of having the Alps in my backyard (some ski resorts even a mere train ride away) and spent last winter almost entirely in the mountains. I forgot how much I loved winter in the mountains– from the smoky smell of fire places cutting through the crisp air, to the coziness of lounging around a cabin in thermal socks and chunky knits playing board games, roasting marshmallows, and drinking mulled wine and hot chocolate with friends and family. (In the Alps, there’s an added bonus of fondue and raclette! Can’t say my weekend trips to Vermont growing up had as much culinary bravado, but I do love a bread bowl at the ski lodge). We’ve become so hardened by the weight of everyday life, the soul-crushing news cycle and the general state of the world, and the elemental joys of a weekend in the mountains offers us a chance to reconnect with our inner child. But most of all, I really missed skiing. It’s a cathartic release of endorphins for me, and I’m so grateful that my move to France has brought the sport—and all the cozy tropes that come with it—back into my life.
Anyways!
Here’s the stuff you came for…
Why A-Lister’s Are Swapping Courchevel for Val d’Isère This Ski Season, Vogue
“A new guard of luxury stays and foodie boltholes is breathing new life into this once-unassuming ski station in the French Alps. At the front of this wave is Airelles Val d’Isère, the latest opening for the luxury hotel collection known for its properties Les Airelles in Courchevel and La Bastide in Gordes. While other independent luxury hotels have quietly appeared, Airelles has had the largest impact in ushering in a new era that’s put Val d’Isère on the map among international travelers, bringing with it its playful and imaginative approach to luxury that gives all of its properties an authentic sense of place…” Read more on Vogue.
The Vogue Guide to Winter in St. Moritz, Vogue
“The hilltop village of St. Moritz, in Switzerland’s Engadin Valley, is one of Europe’s most exclusive ski resorts—here, timeless elegance meets tasteful discretion, all concealed behind the doors of its iconic Art Nouveau hotels and traditional fondue spots. It’s a place where women donning luxury lifestyle labels like Loro Piana and Attersee far outnumber those decked in head-to-toe logos—the latter would find themselves better suited in Courchevel, while boisterous bottle-popping crowds should look to Zermatt and Verbier. The St. Moritz contingent, however, remains rooted in aristocracy and discrete jetsetters nostalgic for the classic glamour that once defined the golden age of après-ski, and that somehow still manages to persist here…” Read more on Vogue.
Which Ski Resort in the French Alps are You?, Prior
“With the exception of Courchevel, historically considered the polestar for a glamorous European ski holiday, ski resorts in the French Alps have long been overshadowed by the profusion of dynamic resorts across Switzerland, such as Verbier, St. Moritz, Zermatt and Gstaad. And yet, France remains home to the biggest swaths of land, namely The 3 Valleys — where the famous Courchevel is located. Today, the abundance of land and promise of cooler temperatures given its optimally high altitudes have been seducing hotel brands and restaurateurs to the lesser-known resorts, where they’ve begun planting roots and increasing tourism to some of these more untapped corners of the Alps. More evidence of the region’s awakening is the unveiling of Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express’s new route which will feature stops in Megève, Mont Blanc, The 3 Valleys, and Tignes-Val d’Isère come March 2025, making it easier to access these snow-sure resorts direct from Paris. While some ski resorts in the French Alps are more primed for tourism than others, large investments and an increase in capital are beginning to take shape here. All to say: if there was ever a time to go and swerve the crowds, it’s now…” Read more on Prior.
The Reawakening of St. Moritz's Art And Culture Scene, L’Officiel US
*This story appeared in the November 2024 print issue
“Referring to St. Moritz’s art and culture scene as ‘burgeoning’ would feel trite—daft, even, as it would discount the decades of rich cultural history in which art contributed to the very fabric of the place. While perhaps more widely known for its winter alpine tourism, the Swiss resort town has been a lively art hub since the 1960s, when writers, artists, and collectors descended on this small town in the Upper Engadin, drawn to its sensational valley views and its iconic frozen lake. Ultimately, Swiss art dealer Bruno Bischofberger was so inspired by this influx, he decided to open St. Moritz’s first gallery in 1963. The St. Moritz art and culture scene has long maintained a quiet momentum that has continued over time, but there is undeniably something of a renaissance happening there today that feels more dynamic than ever. With the advent of international galleries popping up over the past decade, as well as traveling art shows and glamorous cultural events securing their permanent spot on an already packed calendar, the elegant ski resort is burnishing its reputation among the international art and culture communities. Keep reading to discover some of the key people at the forefront of this moment for St. Moritz…” Read more on L’Officiel US.
The Mighty Dolomites: Where to Stay & Eat, Gloobles
“As winter approaches, a snowy sojourn in the Dolomites awaits. Beyond the slopes, I’ve rounded up the best spa stays, as well as the best places to dine– from Michelin-starred boltholes to casual slope-side spots…” Read more on Gloobes.
Some places I’m looking forward to visiting this winter in the Alps…
Le Chalet Saanen of 84 Club Collection - Saanen, Gstaad, Switzerland
Sebastian Schoellgen of 84 Rooms transformed these two gorgeous 250 and 300 year-old chalets in Gstaad using local architecture and antiques sourced from the Alps and France. Both chalets are located within minutes from each other. You can arrive by the GoldenPass Belle Epoque vintage train and they come and get you from the station in Rougemont or Saanen. Seb describes Lion Rouge as more of a farm, situated on a piece of agricultural land high above the French-speaking village of Rougemont. The other one, Saanen, where I’ll be staying just before the holidays, is located right in the village of Saanen, a short walking distance from restaurants, wine bars, grocers and ski lifts. Both are equipped with seven and eight bedrooms respectively and are the perfect stay for big groups of friends.
****Update 2/17/25: Wrote about it for Vogue here!
Eriro Hotel - Ehrwald, Austria
I’m visiting the new Eriro hotel in a couple of weeks, which opened in September 2024 and has already been getting a ton of buzz. Eriro is an intimate luxury mountain hotel located in the Tyrolean Alps only accessible via gondola. It’s the only ski-in/ski-out property on this side of the mountain but there are also tons of other experiences offered, like hiking and snow shoeing. With just 9 suites, a culinary offering rooted in fire cooking (they literally go out and forage/hunt and cook what they find that week), an epic spa, and the elevated simplicity of the hotel’s rustic design combines all of the elements for an idyllic Alpine stay. I have no doubt it’ll live up to my expectations (friends I trust have already sung its praises) but I’ll let you know my thoughts after my stay. (Forestis in the Dolomites is another high design Alpine stay I love that has a similar vibe.)
Experimental Val d’Isère - Val d’Isère, France
I was obsessed with Experimental Chalet Verbier when I stayed there last year. It was the perfect Alpine boutique hotel (seriously, no notes) and probably my favorite Experimental property. They’ve truly mastered the art of a ski chalet hotel: a small but mighty spa with an ice bath and hot tub with a window that opens to the bar inside where you can order a drink while you recover (genius???) And a partnership with Ski Service so your equipment rentals can be arranged at the store nearby then transported and stored in the hotel’s ski room where you’ll find your gloves and boots hanging on warming racks before being transported to the lift by the hotel drivers. The whole experience was just totally seamless and FUN, sooo naturally, I’m eager to check out their new opening in my favorite ski resort in France, which opens in December. I wrote about the opening for T New York Times Style Magazine.
